HIGH HEEL HISTORY

From Chinese lotus shoes to today's stilettos, exaggerated styles have been a part of shoe design throughout time. High heels as we know them started somewhere during the 14th century, when the gentry and noble amongst mankind started to put wooden slips, or "plattens", to the bottom of their footwear to protect it from getting dirty. In more recent times shoes have typically served as markers of gender, class, race, and ethnicity. However no other shoe has gestured toward leisure, sexuality, and sophistication as much as the high-heeled shoe.

The origin of the high heel shoe goes back in history many centuries. Some of the earliest pictures of shoes were seen on ancient Egyptian tombs dating back to around 4,000 BC. These were pieces of leather laced onto the feet and worn mostly by the higher class.

Although generally flat-soled shoes, in some murals depicting both male and females from the upper class in ceremonial dress they were wearing heeled footwear. Interestingly, it is belief that Egyptian butchers also wore a heeled shoe but for the more practical reason of keeping their feet above the blood and gore of the slaughter room floor.

The idea of a high heeled shoe was similarly popular in Ancient Greece, where Esquilo, the first great Greek theatrical author mounted his actors on platform sandals of different heights to indicated varying social status or importance of characters. These shoes were called kothorni, later known as buskins in the Renaissance. Almost in contradiction to Greece and Egypt, in ancient Rome where the sex trade was not illegal the wearing of high heels readily identified female prostitutes not the social status of the noble class.

By the 1500s shoe design changed to the production of a flexible upper shoe and a stiff sole. This led to the heel becoming a part of the actual shoe for practical purposes such as to stop the shoe slipping from the stirrup whilst riding a horse. In the mid 1500s the simple riding heel once again underwent a change to become a fashionable item.

A definite precursor to the high heel was the “patten”, or a wooden sole that was attached to the shoes of both men and women to keep expensive shoes out of the dirt and grime of the street. In the 1400s in Turkey similar designed platform over shoes known as “chopines” were used by women and soon became a trend spreading throughout Europe into the mid 1600s. The Chopines were a stacked heel of wood or cork and would vary in size from 7 inches to 30 inches and the woman often required assistance from a cane or a servant to walk safely. In Venice particularly, the height of the chopines advertised a woman’s wealth and status and although they became prohibited in Venice in 1430 the trend continued to spread. Throughout the ages and across the globe platform shoes, clogs and foot high sandels continued to be the precursor to the two-peice high heel with Emperors, courtiers, concubines and odalisques wearing them to appear dominate or submissive depending on the circumstances.

The actual invention of the high heel is attributed to Catherine of Medici in Paris, in the 16th century, who used them to add height to her short stature by lengthening her legs and therefore increasing her beauty before marrying the powerful Duke of Orleans. Her influence then as the new Queen of the French Court introduced the two-inch heels into fashion amongst the

European aristocracy. By the 17th century, the English Parliament punished as witches all women who used high heels to seduce men into marrying them. Later, and named after their inspiration, Louis XIV, the “Louis” heel became popular with both men and women. Some of the shoes owned by Louis XIV had five-inch heels resplendent with miniature battle scenes. In 1793 Marie Antoinette, so fond of her fashion and shoes she is said to have spent the fortunes of France on them, went to her execution wearing two-inch heels.

The tradition of handmade shoes, like the famous designer, is to a great extent a European phenomenon, in countries such as England and Italy. Also in France, where footwear design was intimately related to dressmaking, whose Parisian industry was founded by the Englishman Charles Frederick Worth in 1858, and was the first of prominence in the world of fashion, to the point where he dressed the whole of European royalty.

The industry of mass-production of footwear had its beginnings in the USA, where what began as a family activity of colonists from New England, ended in the appearance of the first shops in the middle of the 18th century.

Although the heel lowered greatly in the 1790s it still could be found as the slightest wedge or spring heel reminiscent of the classical Roman sandal. The rise of the heel as a popular fashion statement occurred again in the nineteenth century but was cut short with the depression of the early twentieth century and the demand for comfortable flat long wearing all-purpose shoes.

From the 1850s to the 1950s the heel stayed around and below two inches with events like world wars making it difficult to get the resources needed for elegant shoes and luxury items. But the 1950s saw the arrival of screen sirens such Marilyn Monroe and the shoe that encouraged her seductive wiggle, which was the stiletto. The stiletto was invented in Italy and shares its name with a short dagger like knife. Also in fashion was the kitten heel, which looked much like a miniature stiletto. While the stiletto was the Marilyn of the shoe world, the kitten heel was the Audrey Hepburn.

Shoes became chunkier and thicker again in the 1960s with a trend toward boots and shoes with pointed or squared off toes and thicker lower heels. But it was the introduction of the miniskirt that melded the stiletto heal and the boot together to enhance the look of bare legs that saw the return of titillating heels. The 1970s saw another dramatic about-turn in heel style. The slim stiletto was shunned for the chunky platform sole. This was the new Flower-Power breed of the kothorni and chopine shoes of earlier centuries, and was worn by both men and women.

It was really the 1980s that self-expression came into the choice of heels. Women shunned cultural meaning and social expectations and began wearing high heels for themselves. They claimed they not only gave them height but also power and authority socially as well as in the workplace. The 1990’s gave rise to very high heels and the sophisticated look of expensive designer heels that were trade-mark in many television shows and Hollywood movies. By the end of 1990s the desire for expensive high heels began to decline and the need for comfort drove a change in the market yet again.

The high heel has certainly not disappeared in the 21^st century with influences such as the television show Sex and the City the high heel has regained a sense of prestige. Although there are many choices of shoe available today the high heel still has a place as a fashion and beauty statement as well as a symbol of authority and influence.

Historically high heels have reflected nobility, authority and wealth and have had measures of dominance and submission aligned with them. Ever impractical, they are almost like a fetish sometimes, with many women owning more than they could possibly ever need. In a high heel shoe, an ordinary woman can feel transformed. It is almost impossible to cower in high heels, impossible not to strike a pose. I suppose part of the pleasure of wearing high heels is how they make you feel and it is therefore understandable how they have survived throughout the ages.

CHINESE WHISPERS

China is the oldest continuous civilization on the planet encompassing more than 5000 years of history. It is a country that has long been known for its traditional ceremonies, customs and etiquette. Although China has changed drastically in recent years and the Chinese people are more open to western culture westerners still need to be aware of basic manners and acceptable etiquette in the Chinese culture. As the ethical system in China is largely based on Confucianism, with influences of Legalism, Marxism and Daoism, there is an emphasis on personal virtue, merit based promotion, and devotion to family and justice.

The Chinese generally do not like to do business with strangers.To make first contact a mediator or someone known by both parties should establish the first business relationship or encounter and appointments are required. Chinese prefer to be formally introduced to someone new and this applies to both other Chinese and foreigners. Arriving on time or early is a vital aspect of Chinese etiquette as it indicates a show of respect. Standing up when being introduced and continuing to stand throughout the introductions is Chinese custom. Bowing or nodding is the common greeting between Chinese however, a handshake is offered and accepted as a respectful form of greeting with visitors. Personal contact must be avoided when in the presence of Chinese people. It is highly inappropriate for a man to touch a woman in public.

Introductions are formal in China therefore using formal titles is essential. The Chinese may seem unfriendly when being introduced as they are taught not to show excessive emotion, hence the reference to Chinese and other Asians as enigmatic. It is for this reason that Chinese people dislike the use of large hand movements when speaking. They consider them intimidating and inappropriate.

Business cards are exchanged after the initial introduction. It is preferable to present your card and to thank the person for the opportunity to meet with them before you ask for that of the other person. A bow of gratitude is appropriate between Chinese but not necessary by visitors to the country. Make sure that the translation of your card in simplified Chinese characters is in the appropriate dialect (Mandarin or Cantonese.) If your business is distinguished by being the oldest or the largest the card should convey that fact. As in Japan, the card should be presented with both hands.The Chinese translation should be facing up with the type toward the recipient so the card can be read. Examine a business card before putting it on the table next to you or in a business card case, never put the card away immediately. Never write on someone's card unless so directed.

Since the Chinese strive for harmony and are group dependent, they rely on facial expression, tone of voice and posture to tell them what someone feels. Frowning while someone is speaking is interpreted as a sign of disagreement. Therefore, most Chinese maintain an impassive expression when speaking. It is considered disrespectful to stare into another person's eyes and therefore the Chinese avoid eye contact to give themselves privacy.

Despite all the formalities of the culture the Chinese have a great sense of humour. They can laugh at themselves most readily if they have a comfortable relationship with the other person. When in the presence of Chinese people be ready to laugh at yourself given the proper circumstances. In the event of conflict, public insult and blame is not acceptable conduct and will cause shame and embarrassment to Chinese. Any criticism should be delivered privately, discreetly and tactfully.

The Chinese prefer to entertain in public places rather than in their homes, especially when hosting foreigners. Entertaining guests at a Chinese banquet is an important way of establishing relationships. For more formal banquets, invitations will be sent and place cards will be at the table. As a cultural courtesy, Guests should sample all of the dishes and leave something on the plate at the end of the meal. A clean plate indicates you are still hungry and it is the host's responsibility to see that you are continually served food and drink. Under no circumstances should chopsticks be placed in the rice standing up. This symbolizes death.

There are no firm rules regarding dinner conversation. Depending on the closeness of the relationship, business may or may not be discussed. Drinking is an important part of Chinese entertaining and is considered a social lubricant. However women do not usually drink at dinner. The drinking officially begins after the host offers a short toast to the group. The guest should then return the toast either right away or after a few courses have been served.

Safe topics for toasts are friendship, pledges for cooperation, the desire to reciprocate the hospitality, and mutual benefit. The most common expression for toasting is Ganbei, meaning "dry cup", or bottoms up. The Chinese are not as understanding of tipsy guests as are the Japanese or Koreans. If you feel you have had enough, smile and politely indicate this to your host. Do not pour your own drink. It shows a lack of protocol.

As with other Asian cultures, the Chinese have detailed rituals and customs surrounding gift giving. It's important for foreign visitors to learn about Chinese gift-giving etiquette and customs to avoid an embarrassing or insulting moment. The Chinese see gift giving as a way to express gratitude, friendship or hospitality. Gifts are typically given when visiting someone.Depending on the nature of your visit, your gift may vary. Gifts are an important way to build relationships with Chinese people.Chinese are fond of items that are not accessible in China. For example, items hand-made from your country or are highly valued. Do not give scissors, knives or other cutting utensils as they indicate the severing of the relationship. Do not give clocks, handkerchiefs, straw sandals or flowers, as they are associated with funerals and death. Do not wrap gifts in white, blue or black paper. Four is an unlucky number so do not give four of anything. Eight is the luckiest number, so giving eight of something brings luck to the recipient. Always present gifts with two hands. The Chinese do not usually open gifts when they receive them. You should not open a gift given to you unless they insist. The Chinese will decline a gift two or

three times (sometimes even more) before accepting. Do not give up on the first try, but be sensitive to genuine refusals. A proper way to show appreciation for a gift is another gift in return, as opposed to thank you cards.

Similarly, Chinese people pay much attention to their attire. As China is a very traditional oriental nation, it attaches much importance on dressing etiquettes. Chinese people believe in order to respect others and esteem themselves they should dress conservatively, and cover their bodies appropriately. It has become more common to see Chinese girls in the very short or the very low cutstyle of dress in the city and nightclub districts but less frequently in the more urban or remote districts. Men and women do wear jeans, however, jeans are not acceptable for business meetings or formal appointments.

During the traditional season of Chinese festivals, the Chinese people like to dress according to the occasion. Both senior and young people in China dress themselves semi formallyfor festivals. Conservative suits for men with subtle colours are the norm.Women avoid high heels and short-sleeved blouses. The Chinese frown on women who display too much skin as it is considered offensive.

In China everything use to be considered negotiable and although there are many market areas and shopping districts that this is still the case there are certainly stores were the prices are firmly set. A Chloe bag will still cost a small fortune and not be bargained for in a top end designer store! When the price is negotiable shopping, buying and selling can almost be considered a game. The seller plays and the buyer plays. When quoting a price, you can expect people to state as much as they think its worth. Foreigners are susceptible to paying too much as they don't realize

how low prices really are in China. You need to have a realistic idea in your head what something is worth in China.Bargaining is a friendly, social art. Never feel bad about having bargained so hard and feeling like you've cheated someone, no matter how much it may seem so. Chinese people will never sell you something at a loss.

In China religions are said to have equal status and coexist harmoniously. China is a country with a great diversity of religious beliefs with the main religions being Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Catholicism and Protestantism. Citizens of China may freely choose and express their religious beliefs, and make clear their religious affiliations.Religious believers and non-believers respect each other, are united and share a harmonious relationship and the same is expected from foreigners visiting and residing in China.

China combines the old with the new in respect of etiquette and formalities. To compete globally in areas of tourism, industry and trade the Chinese have had to accept many of the western world ways but have done so without diluting their own social traditions and beliefs. To successfully do business, network and manage relationships with the Chinese one will need to be respectful of tradition and protocol as well as remain conservative and polite in all standards of dress and behaviour.